BIG EASY: Restaurant R’evolution

I can’t begin to express the sheer delight I experience when I receive invitations like this: “Join us for a champagne reception, ribbon cutting, and grand opening celebration for Chef John Folse’s Restaurant R’evolution.”

Who, me? Hobnob with the likes of Mayor Landrieu and Secretary of State Dardenne, not to mention the legendary Chef Folse, the divine Mrs. Leah Chase, and the sublime Irvin Mayfield, whose Jazz Playhouse will serve nibbly things from the R’evolution’s kitchen? Seriously, I thought I'd died and gone to New Orleans heaven. (What other kind is there, right?)

As we sipped lovely bubbly in the lush courtyard of the Royal Sonesta Hotel in the French Quarter, a lineup of distinguished speakers took turns singing the praises of everyone involved in this joint venture between Chefs Folse and Rick Tramonto of Chicago, which offers “reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine.” Following the speeches, they moved on to the cutting of the ribbon. And by “ribbon,” I mean a garland of groceries. Wielding razor-sharp chef’s knives, they sliced and diced their way through peppers, garlic, sausages, and sweet potatoes, signifying the commencement of the mad dash (only a slight exaggeration) to the new facility, conveniently located adjacent to the hotel courtyard, with another entrance on Bienville Street.


The space is divided into multiple distinctive areas: Bar R’Evolution, a sophisticated, lantern-lit bar area with a gray slate floor, lots of dark wood, and gracefully arching backlit curio cabinets; the Storyville Parlor, a lavish center dining room with a grand chandelier and delicate hand-painted murals that depict New Orleans’ seven most distinctive cultural influences; the checkerboard-floored Market Room, so named for its old-world vibe, complete with cypress-topped communal tables and vintage-looking glass coolers, stocked with hanging roasts and such; the semi-private Wine Room, with a view of, you guessed it, the impressive 10,000-bottle wine collection; plus the Bienville Suite and Courtyard Room, which flank the hotel’s courtyard and Bienville Street, respectively.

We were also given a personal tour of the million-dollar custom-built Viking kitchen, which was both fascinating and intimidating. And while such tours may not be conducted so freely during regular operating hours, if you’re willing to shell out a few extra bucks, you can reserve the very secluded private chef's dining room for you and your friends. It comes complete with a private entrance and a bird’s eye view of the kitchen.

So. Stinkin’. Cool.


Okay, so on to the food. Let’s just say, if I still had a gallbladder, it would have punished me violently for indulging in an evening of such gastronomical decadence. There was a station set up to sample a dizzying array of cured meats and cheeses, and another for roasted pork and oysters, but the true delights were served like a tray parade of culinary treats. Everyone descended like locusts every time a server emerged with a fresh tray, so if you weren’t smart enough to station yourself near the kitchen door, well, you just had to suffer the disappointment of grabbing at an empty tray.

Guess where I stayed. And guess why my notes (and pictures) are so sparse. ‘Tis very difficult to balance a wine glass and plate while scribbling on paper or operating a camera, people! So, I focused most of my attention on tray after tray of perfectly seared scallops, velvety foie gras, bright and briny caviar (made from local alligator gar eggs, believe it or not!), impossibly tender sliced tenderloin, tangy goat cheese and beet salad, savory duck ravioli, and my personal favorite of the night – incredibly rich turtle soup (the recipe, dating back to the 1800s, is displayed prominently on a mirrored wall, by the way). Of course, there were also desserts like coffee beignets, Turbodog chocolate cake, and my second favorite of the night – white chocolate bread pudding with a crème brulee topping. Completely unreal.

Oh, there was more, but I seriously can’t recall the rest. Partly because of my poor note-taking, and perhaps, partly because of the free-flowing Chardonnay and Cuvee Blanc. Yes, like I always say: I'm more of an "eatie" than a "foodie." Therefore, I sacrificed journalistic integrity for gluttonous indulgence... and I'd do it again!!

Suffice it to say, the food is outrageous and the ambience is exquisite. Both cuisine and décor are painstakingly loaded with details and nuances that pay homage to our beloved city! Viva la R’evolution!

The restaurant is now officially open (as of June 4), so I highly recommend reserving that table asap. A place this amazing is guaranteed to book up fast!

Restaurant R'evolution
504.553.2277
http://revolutionnola.com